Ingredients
Ingredients, with the gaps left visible
One page per ingredient. Each shows what grade of evidence sits behind it, how long you would have to wait before a difference could be detected, who we never suggest it to, and which claims we are holding back.
16 ingredientsKnowledge base version 1.0.0
Read this before the rest
Nothing in this reference has been signed off by a person yet. Every source behind it is a brief we wrote describing the evidence we still need to read, and not one of them is a citation. The consequence is deliberate and it is enforced by code: right now the engine suggests nothing to anybody, and the claim text on these pages stays hidden.
When a curator reads a source, records it, and marks it checked, the claim appears here and the ingredient becomes suggestible. That takes no code change, which is the point.
What the grades mean
- Grade A
- Multiple controlled trials.
- Grade B
- Some controlled evidence.
- Grade C
- Mechanistic reasoning or traditional use only, with no controlled evidence behind it.
All ingredients
Adapalene
Grade ANot suggested by us, for these reasons
Alpha-arbutin
Grade CNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: arbutin
Azelaic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: AzA
Benzoyl peroxide
Grade ANot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: bpo
Centella asiatica
Grade CNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: cica, gotu kola
Glycolic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: aha
Hydroquinone
Grade ANot suggested by us, for these reasons
Kojic acid
Grade CNot suggested by us, for these reasons
L-ascorbic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: vitamin c
Lactic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Mandelic acid
Grade CNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Niacinamide
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: vitamin b3, nicotinamide
Retinaldehyde
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: retinal
Retinol
Grade ANot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: vitamin a
Salicylic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: bha
Tranexamic acid
Grade BNot suggested by us, for these reasons
Also called: txa
This might not work for you
Most of what is known about any ingredient comes from group averages. A group average is a statement about a group. It is not a forecast about you, and nobody selling it can turn it into one.
Plenty of people use an ingredient with good evidence behind it for a full course and measure nothing. That outcome is common, it is not a failure on your part, and it is the single most useful thing we can tell you — because it is the one thing the rest of the industry has no reason to mention.
It is also why the product works the way it does: one change at a time, a baseline first, an uncertainty band on every number, and a plain answer at the end even when the answer is that nothing moved. A verdict of no detectable change is a real answer, and it is the one that saves you money.
And if something does move, we still cannot tell you it was this ingredient rather than the season, your sleep, or the other thing you changed in week four. That is what running one experiment at a time is for.
Where to get these
Every entry above ends with the products in our catalogue that declare it. The ingredient is the thing we suggest; a product is a way to obtain one, and it is the part of this we have no opinion about.